Higher Than the Norm

Meritage is one of the year’s best

Dec. 06, 2007

midnight

The fuzzy border of Milwaukee and Wauwatosa between Vliet Street andNorth Avenue is definitely going upscale. The area has become home to anumber of casual wine bars and restaurants. The end of this summer sawthe arrival of another contender, Meritage, the creation of Jan Kelly,former head chef of the defunct Walker’s Point favorite Barossa.Kelly’s new home is at the intersection of 60th Street and Vliet, justacross from the Times Cinema. Meritage replaces the short-lived Indigo,which took over from the Highlander, a neighborhood fixture for manyyears. While the bar still dominates the interior, the tablescompletewith butcher paper on the topslend the room the feeling of a casualbistro.

Meritageis a term for a blended wine of higher quality than the norm.Naturally, wine plays a prominent role here. But the food is good, too.

Theseasonal menu is still in its autumn phase. Among the exceptionalselection of starters is grilled goat cheese wrapped in nasturtiumleaves, accompanied by a compote of dried cherries and port wine ($6).The sole Asian influence is seen in the Chinese BBQ lamb ribs ($6).Though the ribs have little meat and are on the chewy side, the sweetdark sauce infused with five-spice powder creates a remarkable mating.The ribs are served over a slaw of jicama, red onion, slivered peapods, red pepper and cilantro. This reminds me of the best items at theformer Barossa. Another winner, the leek and ricotta tart ($7), istopped with bits of country ham and a few radish sprouts for a touch ofcolor.

The prices of the entrees qualify as moderate. A$20 rib-eye steak is becoming a rarity in this era of priceysteakhouses. The grilled flat-iron steak ($17) is even cheaper. Thistender cut is served in slices, pink in the middle unless specified. Ithas a red wine sauce with just the right intensity to enhance the meat.Sides are of white potatoes and seasonal vegetables (currentlybroccoli). One of the few vegetarian entrees (this is not Bay Viewafter all) is pasta pillows ($14) stuffed with ricotta and fresh basil.The tomato and grated Parmesan sauce tops the pasta. An extra $2 turnsthe sauce into lamb ragu, a fine option for meat eaters.

Standingout from an already fine menu is duck served two ways ($18). The firstis a succulent skinned duck breast that’s pan-seared and served inslices. Option No. 2 is more ingenious: an Anaheim pepper stuffed withduck meat and goat cheese, coated with a thin cornmeal crust and fried.The chili is served over a ruby-hued mole with distinction. It’s moresweet than spicy, with a texture compounded from bits of skin from thedried chilies. You can’t find that in commercial products.

Reservationsare a good idea, especially on weekends. Though the menu is notextensive, chef Kelly chooses items wisely and cooks them withattention and care. Meritage clearly will rank as one of the best newrestaurants of 2007.

Meritage
5921 W. Vliet St.
(414) 479-0620