When traveling in
Southeast Asia a few years ago, I encountered a copy of the Bangkok Post with an
extensive article lamenting the shortage of restaurants that make their own
curry pastes. Most restaurants resort to commercial products because the process
of making their own is so time consuming. This helps explain why the curries at
local Thai restaurants often taste the same, and why I usually look for other
items to order. Those who remember the former Thai Royal restaurant, last
located on Broadway just south of Wisconsin Avenue, will remember what a good
homemade curry paste tastes like.
Fortunately, there’s still a place to find good Thai curry: the Bangkok House (4698 S. Whitnall Ave.), located in a strip mall near the airport. They make their own green curry prepared with shrimp. The curry is liquid and served in a bowl with the usual bamboo shoots and a sprig of fresh basil. Order it on the spicier side and you will not be disappointed. This is what Thai curry should be.
Photo by Kate Engbring