Home / Dining Out / Joey’s Seafood & Grill Adds Charm to Brookfield
Tuesday, Dec. 22, 2009

Joey’s Seafood & Grill Adds Charm to Brookfield

Chain restaurant offers casual comfort, moderate prices

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Despite its location in yet another Brookfield strip mall, Joey’s Seafood & Grill manages to exude some charm. Big windows and high ceilings help, along with a nice, nautical-themed bar. Blackboards promote daily specials, and the tables and booths offer casual comfort.

Though Joey’s is part of a chain, it doesn’t really feel like one. What stands out most is the affordable pricing, especially at lunchtime. Be in the mood for items like mahi mahi, catfish, fish & chips and scallops, as this is not a place for lobster. Still, the menu is broad enough and a new variety of finfish is offered every few weeks. Currently it is tilefish, a species from the Atlantic Ocean.

Fish & chips figures prominently on the menu—fortunately, it is a safe bet. North Atlantic haddock ($9.49-$10.99) has a good, crisp batter, though it can be a bit oily at times. This sound, simple fare is served with fries and a decent creamy slaw mostly of cabbage with a bit of carrot. Another winner is the tilefish ($13.99), cooked with a dash of Old Bay seasoning and garlic butter. The flesh is as firm as halibut. A side of bacon cheddar mashed potatoes is in order. The potatoes, which have the skin on, are buttery and have plenty of bacon flavor. If only everything was this consistent.

Joey’s crab cakes, sold as an appetizer ($8.99) or entrée ($14.99), have a flavor that is good enough, and the crab is blue, which can make for an excellent cake. The Old Bay seasoning works even better here, but the Japanese bread crumbs overwhelm what little crab meat there is in a sea of starch. Lobster appears in the lobster and seafood Alfredo ($14.99). The pasta is a spiral cavatappi and the cream sauce with Parmesan is competent. But the seafood is sparse and seems more like surimi than lobster.

The tacos de pescado category includes four seafood tacos. Cajun shrimp ($8.99) is a pair of tacos in large flour tortillas. The shrimp are numerous, but the taco is a dull affair with too much shredded cabbage, pico de gallo and what is called salsa blanca. The salsa blanca is a tweaked sour cream whose only purpose seems to be to neutralize the pico de gallo. The whole thing adds up to a poorly conceived shrimp taco.

But there are occasional glimmers of hope. The small side of red beans and rice served with the tacos is tasty and contains a nice element of spice. Old Bay again, perhaps? The chicken and sausage gumbo, with celery and okra, is above average. The side salad is larger than normal and there are 10 dressings available. And even when Joey’s is busy, the kitchen is a model of efficiency, with everything arriving when it should.

Most customers seem to visit because the prices are moderate. The rule here is “the simpler, the better.” Better crab cakes can be found, but not at these prices. n

Joey’s Seafood & Grill
12455 W. Capitol Drive
(262) 790-9500
$$
Credit Cards: All major
Smoke-Free
Handicap Access: Yes

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