Coa modified the exterior to add a dining patio andlarge stone fireplace. The stonework is a perfect match to the formerCameron’s. The interior is now more open, with a bar in the center ofeverything, and many of the tables are located near windows.
Coa is the newest venture of Marc and MartaBianchini, whose other properties include Osteria del Mondo, Cubanitas andIndulge. Marc is also a consulting chef who has worked extensively with themenus at Carnevor and Kil@wat. The Bianchinis typically cater to the upper endsof the market, but Coa aims for something more affordable. It is dubbed “Theheart of Mexican streetfood.”
Though the term “coa” refers to a tool used toremove thorns from agave plants, the restaurant Coa does not have a rough,“street food” setting. The elegant, restrained interior, with its sleek woodentables, boasts a very contemporary feel. There is none of the colorfulhandcrafted clutter that many Mexican restaurants thrive on.
The menu centers on tacos, with a dozen differentfillings to choose from. You’ll also find simple starter courses such as sopes,tamales and ceviche, as well as saladsand cocktails.
But the tacos remain the focus. Carne asada, alpastor, rajas and pescado fit the genre of street food. Choose from white corn,flour tortillas or lettuce cups. The pescado is simple enougha piece ofbattered mahi-mahi with a dash of cabbage slaw and Coa mayo that has a chipotleflavor. The al pastor tacos are made from chunks of pork that are short onchile flavor. The cilantro and chopped onion seem right, but there is alsochopped pineappleit’s not bad, but the flavors are very different. The carneasada is grilled flank steak with pico de gallo and slices of avocado. Thesteak pieces, cooked medium-rare, are too thick, with tenderness and flavortrumping authenticity. Vegetarian rajas usually include fried chile pepperstrips as the dominant ingredient; this version features poblano, but it’soutnumbered by potatoes dusted with cheese.
A few tacos wander far from the street, such as theStrauss veal with a mildly spicy tomato and chile sauce. A Nueske’s cherrybacon taco offers chunks of bacon combined with sweet cherries, honey andonions. It certainly is novel, and quite sweeta dessert taco. Individual tacoscost $3 to $5; you can get a plate of three for $12 or eight for $29.
The remainder of the menu actually has a betterfocus than the tacos. The tamales ($4), pork-filled masa wrapped in bananaleaves and steamed, are perfectly appropriate. Elote asado ($3), an ear of cornwith squiggles of Coa mayo, cheese and a dusting of arbol chile powder, makesfor great street food. Sopa tarasca is a fine soup featuring tortilla strips,avocado and Chihuahuacheese with a chicken broth infused with chile pepper and lime juice.
Diners receive complimentary flour tortilla chipsthat are feather-light. The flour chips are a refreshing change from corn andarrive with two salsas: a tart salsa verde and a spicier red salsa with a smokyflavor.
Every day offers a special entrée. Tuesday’s specialof baby back ribs ($14) is the priciest item on the menu. The serving is 10large, meaty ribs. The meat holds to the bone and the mild Yucatecan-stylesauce is very interesting. The sauce is a mango orange barbecue, with the mangomaking it as sweet as honey. In Yucatanthe oranges tend to be sour, but these are quite difficult to find locally,which is a shame.
Be sure to explore the bar as well, as Coa takes theart of the margarita seriously. If your idea of a real Mexican margarita issomething from Senor Frog’s or Carlos’n Charlie’s, you have come to the wrongplace. The La Casa margarita ($8) is served over ice; salt must be requested.The lime juice is fresh and tart in this potent drinkthis is the real Mexico.
The “street food” concept may be a bit of a stretch,but it is the suburbs, after all. Service is accommodating and there are plentyof hands on deck. And Coa definitely has the nicest setting at Bayshoresimpleelegance meets very affordable prices. n
Coa
5750 N. Port Washington Road
Bayshore Town Center
(414) 967-1451
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Credit Cards: All Major
Handicap Access: Yes
