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Wednesday, Sept. 30, 2009

Short Orders (Jalapeno Loco)

Impressive Mexican Menu

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One of the area’s most consistent Mexican restaurants is located just a short distance from the airport: Jalapeno Loco (5067 S. Howell Ave.). Everything is good, whether your preference is pork enchiladas or a fine Oaxacan mole. Mexican paper cutouts make the dining room explode with color. You’ll find seasonal specials in addition to the substantial standard menu. A recent option was called Hugo’s Insane Special, in reference to the owner, Hugo Saynes. The special is a choice of jumbo shrimp or chicken breast; the insanity comes from the sauce, which is prepared with habanero pepper and a hint of blue cheese. Most other local Mexican restaurants rely on arbol chiles for their spiciest fare, but this sauce has the golden hue of a Oaxacan mole amarillo. The sauce is spicy and the intensity of the habanero increases with time—it may not be insane, but it is a very good sauce. And it makes a fine addition to an already impressive menu.

Photo by Amelia Coffaro

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