The Road to Cudahy
Great breakfasts on the South Shore
|Cudahy has never been a destination for travelers, at least not in
living memory. But a new boutique hotel, the Sheridan House, hopes to
turn the South Shore suburb into a comfortable, casually luxurious
stopover for visitors. Here and there Cudahy has been home to fine
dining over the years. The cafe on the Sheridan House’s ground floor
adds unexpected panache to dining out in metro Milwaukee. Even if you
don’t live near Cudahy, Sheridan’s is worth the trip for its unique
atmosphere and well-prepared meals.
The glazed brick building was built as a hotel a century ago, and since the 1960s had housed a dimly lit supper club called Fountain Blue. The exterior was restored to its pale masonry, with stucco finishes; the interior has become an Art Nouveau showplace of curve-backed chairs and curvaceous metal work over the bar. In keeping with the circa-1900 aesthetic, which drew inspiration from the symmetry of nature, tulip-shaped glass lamps hang from the ornate ceiling. An elongated oval mirror, wide as a psychedelic cat’s eye, suggests Art Nouveau’s interest in expanded sensual perception. The restaurant is an elegant quartet in black and white, chocolate brown and shades of gray.
Did I mention that it’s also the greatest place for an early breakfast south of Wisconsin Avenue? Open daily at 7 a.m., Sheridan’s offers a menu with everything from hot grainy cereal to steak and eggs. The oatmeal pancakes ($6.50) aren’t fluffy as described on the menu, but no matter. They are hearty and flavorful even without the side dish of organic Wisconsin maple syrup, sauted apples or lingonberries. It’s the ideal stick-to-the-ribs starter for a chilly fall day.
You can go simple with two eggs and choice of bacon, ham, sausage or turkey sausage ($5.95), or a little fancier with egg souffl du jour served in a flaky puff pastry ($6.50). There is also a short selection of panini sandwiches for an appealing alternative to eggs and toast. Why not have your scrambled eggs on toasted panini with a little melted mozzarella, crisp spinach and sun-dried tomato ($4.75)?
On a bright morning the sun pours like golden honey through the wide windows overlooking Warnimont Golf Course, clinging to the marbled and wood surfaces inside. Sheridan’s servers are likewise bright and friendly, recognizing faces after only one or two visits. The refills of a special Alterra blend are another warm welcome to the day.
Sheridan’s remains an undiscovered gem with plenty of open tables for breakfast. The situation may change as word gets out. Lunch is served after 11 a.m. and dinner after 5 p.m.