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Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Brady Street’s Seafood King

Bosley a great stop for happy hour and entrées

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Walk by at 5 p.m. on a weekday and you will notice something about Bosley on Brady. The place is filled with customers, at least the front bar room and the sidewalk tables. This is thanks to great happy hour specials on drinks and appetizers. The appetizers are priced from $4-$7 and the most expensive beer is $2.50. The owner, Michelle Green, opened the place in 2005. There is a Key West theme from the artwork on the walls to the seafood selections on the menu.

The menu has seen subtle changes over the years. In addition to the diverse seafood offerings, there are steaks, a veal chop and chicken. But seafood is king here. Do try the fancy fried green tomato ($12), coated with cornmeal crumbs, topped with a pair of blackened shrimp and served with hollandaise sauce. The blackened seafood trend has come and gone but still remains compelling here. Sautéed calamari ($10) is a simple preparation of tender pieces of squid cooked in olive oil with lemon and just a hint of chili pepper. Served over spinach, it’s another winner. PEI mussels are a big bowl of blue mussels cooked with white wine, butter, lemon, basil, diced fresh tomatoes and—again—a dash of chili pepper. Toasted bread is provided for sopping up this delicious broth.

Then there is the uncommonly good crab and artichoke dip ($7). The flavor of the crabmeat takes charge and the dip is just waiting to be scooped onto pita bread triangles. All of the above-mentioned appetizers are listed on the happy hour menu.

The entrées hold up to the starter courses. Perhaps the best item on the menu is the Florida grouper ($26), either pan-sautéed or blackened and served with potato pancakes with micro greens and a mango-lime salsa. Grouper is at its best in an uncomplicated preparation. U-10 sea scallops also please with the seared scallops served over a gorgonzola risotto with pancetta and a few spears of asparagus. The earthy flavor of the gorgonzola stands in contrast to the sweetness of the scallops—an interesting pairing. Undecided? Order the seafood symphony ($24), an assortment that changes daily.

The natural dessert to order is the key lime pie with a gingersnap crust ($7). It’s also served frozen and dipped in chocolate. Another notable feature is the carefully chosen wine list with the best vintages sold only by the bottle. Bosley on Brady is aging well. The high standards that brought customers here in the first place are still being maintained. And the weekday happy hour is by far the best in this area. But please put conch back on the menu!

Bosley on Brady

815 E. Brady St.

414-727-7975

$$$-$$$$

Handicapped access: yes

bosleyonbrady.com

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