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Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Fritz's Tasty, Affordable Serbian Fare

Milwaukee pub in a class of its own

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The exterior of Fritz's Pub looks like many corner bars in Milwaukee. And upon entering, it still fits the bill, with its dark, windowless interior, sheet-paneling walls and imitation brick. But Fritz's menu, which includes some Serbian items, sets the place apart.

Look no further than the first page of the menu. The Serbian choices include bureks, shish-ka-bab, chewaps and a special burger. The chewaps ($8.50-$11.50) are a simplified spelling of chevapchichi, Serbian sausages made of a mixture of veal and beef. They are grilled and ever so tasty. Even the smaller size is a big platter of food. There is also a heap of crinkle-cut fries, bread, pepperoncini, a pickle spear and a generous slice of feta cheese. Onions, raw or fried, are also an option.

The burger is called the Fritzburger ($7.95). A variant of the chewaps, it offers the same meats amplified by onion and paprika and served without a bun. It includes the same accompaniments and has the same, novel texture. This is one of the best burgers in the area.

The shish-ka-bab ($8.50-$11.50) features pieces of tender marinated pork that are grilled but not served on a skewer. I prefer the chewaps, but this is still a tasty option.

Bureks ($11.50), a bit like a pie, are made with layers of phyllo pastry. The different fillings include spinach, meat, cheese and various combinations. But be prepared for a wait, as they take nearly an hour to prepare. (It is also possible to call the restaurant and place your order in advance.) Frozen bureks are sold as to-go items, with cooking directions that are very simple to follow. All of the bureks are very good.

The remainder of the menu is standard pub fare, with items like burgers, fried chicken, salads and a shrimp basket.

Four house-made soups ($2.25-$3) are available daily. Danish potato includes pieces of ham, and green chile stew has a mild dash of spice. Soup or a side salad may be substituted for the fries that are served with the entrees and sandwiches.

Friday offers a fish fry ($8.95-$10.95) after 3 p.m. Those who arrive in the early part of evening will probably be served beer-battered haddock. Once the haddock runs out, it will be cod.

Fritz's also offers homemade cheesecakes for dessert.

The pub is closed on Sundays and Mondays. In the middle of the week, Fritz's opens before noon and closes at 7 p.m. The place stays open until 10 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

This is a good place to relax and take your time. For those who enjoy Serbian food, Fritz's Pub offers reliable, very affordable fare. This puts the pub in a class of its own.

Fritz's Pub

3086 S. 20th St.

(414) 643-6995

$

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