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Wednesday, April 4, 2012

INDIAN/PAKISTANI

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Anmol

711 W. Historic Mitchell St.

Hidden in the colorful Mitchell Street neighborhood, Anmol is one of the few places in Milwaukee offering authentic Pakistani cuisine, reflecting both Afghani and Persian influences as well as the flavorsome cuisine of bustling cities like Karachi and Lahore. Highlights include biryani that tastes homemade and naan that is probably the best in the city. (A.M.) $-$$. CC. NA. 672-7878

Bombay Sweets

3401 S. 13th St.

The setting is spare with white Formica tables and plastic forks and cutlery. But this all-vegetarian East Indian menu is filled with rare and unusual delights. Lemon rice, pakoras, pooris, utappam and malai kofta are all recommended. Also look for coconut raita and chutney. And there is a bakery counter filled with an array of Indian sweets and snacks. (J.B.) $. CC. OD. NA. 383-3553

Dera Grill

869 W. Layton Ave.

Dera Grill is one of the few places in the city that emphasizes the Pakistani side of the wider Indo-Pakistani culinary tradition. The meat is all Zahina Halal, the Muslim equivalent of kosher; another Pakistani touch is the inclusion of beef and the exclusion of pork. Located in a strip mall a block away from one of Wisconsin's biggest mosques, Dera Grill hosts an evening halal buffet beginning at sundown and runs until 11 p.m. during Ramadan. (J.L.R.) $-$$. CC. LB. (414) 744-2500

Maharaja

1550 N. Farwell Ave.

Maharaja has an extensive Indian menu starting with samosa and pakora appetizers, 16 types of flatbread, an array of curries and the usual masala, vindaloo and moghlai. Those in the mood for unusual dishes will find a South Indian section, primarily vegetarian and including such treats as lentil donuts in yogurt sauce. The lunch buffet is a Milwaukee favorite. (J.B.) $$. CC. FB, RS. LB. 276-2250

Mayura Indian Restaurant

1958 N. Farwell Ave.

A vegetarian can dine like royalty at Mayura from a buffet crowded with saag and pakora, lentil paddies and lemon rice. Meat eaters can feast on a variety of savory lamb and chicken dishes. Tucked into an inconspicuous business strip on one of the East Side's busy thoroughfares, Mayura offers items seldom seen in Milwaukee's Indian restaurants. (D.L.) $-$$. CC. LB. Handicap access. 271-8200.

Royal India

3400 S. 27th St.

Royal India's specialties are from the clay tandoor oven, whether flatbreads or a sizzling platter of jumbo shrimp. Meats tend to be lamb and chicken and vegetarians will find the menu a pleasure. The levels of spicing make the dishes accessible yet flavorful. When Royal India opened it was one of Milwaukee's best restaurants. That still holds true today. (J.B.) $-$$. CC. FB. LB. Handicap access. 647-9600.

Taj Mahal

5114 S. 108th St.

Taj Mahal adds a little edge to East Indian fare. The menu is extensive and  the seafood is unexpected with crab curries and even tandoori lobster. Kadi duck is dumplings of meat cooked with chickpea flour. The variety here is amazing! (J.B.) $-$$. CC. RS. SB. FF. Handicap access. 427-5900

Tandoor House

1117 S. 108th St.

The East Indian menu packs few surprises, but the tandoor oven produces good flatbreads and succulent tandoori chicken. Curries are tame unless they're ordered “extra spicy.” Among the ample vegetarian entrées are thalis—lentil crepes filled with curries. Meat curries include chicken, lamb, goat and even beef. (J.B.) $-$$. CC. FB. LB. 777-1600

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