1310 E. Brady St.
The Greek food is of remarkably high quality at remarkably low prices. The egg-lemon soup has a pleasant light and tart broth, while the handmade dolmades are a delight. Souvlaki are freshly grilled kebabs of chicken, beef or tuna. Though there is no table service, this place stands out in a neighborhood of fine restaurants. Wine and beer are served. (J.B.) $. CC. OD. LT. Handicap access. 272-2233
7203 W. North Ave.,
The a la carte menu at Cosmo's Café features a balance of traditional Greek and American cuisine, with a couple of international items representing the flavors of other cultures. Breakfast is served all day, every day. Lunch and dinner offerings include specialty burgers and sandwiches, soups and salads, and several Greek appetizers that could also serve as vegetarian meals, from spanakopita to saganaki (pan-seared sheep milk cheese) and flavorful falafel served with tahini sauce. (H.Z.) $. CC. 257-2005
777 N. Jefferson St.
The taverna has been a center of Greek life for centuries. Dino's elegantly updates the concept with its black-and-stainless steel bar and Doric-columned, just-below-street-level room. The wine list is long and the food includes American sandwiches and tasty Greek specialties. (D.L.) $-$$. CC. FB, OD. 221-1777
602 S. Second St.
Gyro Palace is well worth a visit, offering a surprisingly extensive menu beyond gyros, including chicken shish-kebob marinated with olive oil, garlic and oregano served atop a pita with onions and tomatoes; and dolmades, grape leaves stuffed with meat and rice topped with a mild lemon rice sauce. Your order is taken at the counter. (D.L.) $. CC. Handicap access. 298-9622
1014 N. Van Buren
You won't leave Mykonos Cafe hungry. Even a humble chicken shish-kebob sandwich special comes with fries, soda, white bread and a little salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, feta and black olives. The Cafe opens at 7 a.m. for breakfast; its lunch and dinner menu includes spinach pie, moussaka and pastitsio. The sunny, open atmosphere conveys the right impression. It's counter service, but you'll feel as if you've just grabbed a quick bite in Athens. (D.L.) $. CC. Handicap access. 224-6400
2867 N. Oakland Ave., 963-1393
530 W. Layton Ave., 744-2555
One of Milwaukee's favorite counter-service restaurants offers gyros and shish-kebob sandwiches, spinach pie, Greek salads and even plain old cheeseburgers. The leg of lamb combo (at $6.95 the priciest menu item) features a large piece of tender, flavorful meat in a brown sauce, served with warm pita, black olives, feta and choice of fries or salad. (D.L.) $. CC. LT.