Thursday, Dec. 8, 2011
Tello's Meshes Greek, Mexican, U.S. Flavors
The flags of the United States, Mexico and Greece fly in front of Tello's Grille & Cafe (200 W. Grand Ave., Port Washington), telegraphing the staple cuisines of this roomy, quirky establishment in the city's downtown. A recent dinner with friends found most of us gravitating toward the Mexican portion of the menu. Fish tacos come garnished with sautéed veggies and fresh avocado slices, while beefsteak with poblano peppers and cheese offers a complex array of savory tastes and textures. The Mexican flair extends to hamburger and chicken sandwich variations. Greek fare such as pork and chicken souvlaki, moussaka and pastichio mingle with gyro meat, not only showing up in traditional pita sandwich form, but also at the heart of an individual pizza and stir fry. Spinach pie shows up on both the dinner and breakfast menus. A generous portion of baklava makes for a light dessert, sweet, gooey, crunchy and flaky in deliciously equal proportions. The rehabbed historic locale (following a 2002 fire) may draw your eyes, but there's plenty at Tello's to keep your mouth happily engaged as well.