The Legacy of Kobe Beef
Everyculture has delicacies—dishes so rare, distinct or costly that they tend to be enjoyed on the most momentous occasions. Some, like Japan’s revered Kobe beef, will appeal to a broader constituency than others.
The legacy of Kobe beef reads like tales of medieval
royalty, in which the purity of bloodlines, pampered treatment and pacts between
nations reign supreme. The story begins during the second century, when cattle
from China were introduced into Japan. Japan’s terrain created isolated
pockets in which different feeding and breeding techniques were used on the
Japanese cattle, or Wagyu, and this made for distinctly different
characteristics for herds in each region.
Cattle from the city of Kobe,
Japan, became renowned for producing beef with extraordinary
flavor and tenderness. “It has an equal ratio of meat to fat all through it,”
explains Jason Gorman, head chef of Dream Dance Restaurant. “It doesn’t have
chunks or strands of fat; it’s consistent all the way through. That’s what gives
it the tender texture and the rich and subtle flavor.”
The traditional
methods of raising Kobe beef include feeding beer to the Wagyu during the summer
months when the combination of their fat and Japan’s hot and humid climate depresses feed intake. Beer
stimulates their appetite, while a little massage therapy keeps them supple.
“With the massaging, it’s not like they have naked geisha walking around
massaging the animals,” says Richard Kaiser, owner of Nanakusa Japanese
Restaurant. “They massage to work the layers of fat into the muscle tissue. So
when you look at real Kobe beef, it’s pink, not that deep red normally
associated with beef.”
Following a 17th-century Shogun mandate, the
herds in Japan were officially closed,
except for a short period during the late 1800s. Either as a gift from the
emperor of Japan or a government exchange,
four Wagyu bulls journeyed from Japan to a new home in the United
States in 1976. But the real influx of Wagyu genetics into the country
began in the 1990s. Domestically raised Wagyu were crossbred with Angus cattle
to create “Kobe-style” beef.
Just as sparkling wine cannot be called
Champagne unless it hails from the Champagne province in France, beef cannot be called Kobe unless it is imported
from the environs of Kobe, Japan.
“The domestic Kobe-style
beef is better than prime, with a flavor that has a real richness to it,” Gorman
says. “It’s not as over-the-top, melt-in-your-mouth as the Japanese, but it’s
definitely a better quality meat than most places will be serving.”
Nanakusa offers Kobe-style beef that has been domestically raised in the
traditional Japanese manner at Snake River Farms in Idaho. With a diet of rich barley, golden wheat straw and
potatoes, free of artificial hormones and animal byproducts, the cattle at Snake
River Farms are fed four times longer than average cattle are fed. Kaiser serves
the intensely flavored and supremely tender beef tataki style (rib-eye that has
been lightly seared on the outside and thinly sliced) and hibachi style (cubed
rib-eye grilled in garlic butter), as well as in sukiyaki and shabu shabu,
which, as Kaiser explains, is served fondue style.
“You pick up the very
thinly sliced meat and swish it back and forth in a hot broth that already has
vegetables and noodles in it. The sound of that back-and-forth motion in the hot
broth in Japanese is shabu shabu.” Executive chef Jarvis Williams of Carnevor
serves domestically raised Kobe-style filets at his restaurant. “We have true
Kobe with a certificate of authenticity, which shows the birth date of the
animal, where it’s from and the ID number,” Williams explains. When customers
order Kobe, “we advise them that their steak knife won’t be necessary,” Williams
says. “It only takes a fork to get to the bottom of the plate.”
“We
serve both domestic and imported Kobe beef at Dream Dance,” Gorman says. “We
sear all sides of the Kobe to seal in the flavor and then slice it paper thin.
We serve it with a Japanese presentation, with a rice noodle cake and a toasted
shallot broth.”
While a Kobe-style flat iron steak that exceeds a prime
rating costs $42 at Dream Dance, eight ounces of the real deal is $140. “I would
definitely recommend somebody spending the money just to see what it’s all
about,” Gorman adds. “Just to experience it.”
Kobe Beef from
Carnevor Photo by Kate Engbring



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