The old village of Brown Deer may be a bit tricky to locate, but it is worth the effort. You’ll find a number of restaurants and bars at the intersection of River Lane and Deerwood Drive, but the destination of note is Larry’s Market (8737 N. Deerwood Drive). It almost has a country-store feel to it, though the old-time country stores never had a cheese selection like this—especially the 15-year-old aged Wisconsin cheddar priced at $59.95 a pound. This makes the intense, excellent blue cheese Spanish Queso de Valdeón seem like a relative bargain at $19.95. Larry’s is a fine place to shop for beer and wine, and it also has a popular deli. In addition to daily specials, the selection includes more than 20 sandwiches and numerous salads. The deli prices are far more moderate, too, including a roast tenderloin sandwich for $5.95. There is outdoor seating during the summer. For this time of the year, choose one of the few indoor tables just past the cheese counter. The relaxed pace of Larry’s feels far removed from the bustling intersections nearby.