The Forbidden Nectar of Absinthe
‘Little Green Book’ offers guide to recently legalized cocktail
The Little Green Book of Absinthe: An
Essential Companion With Lore, Trivia and Classic and Contemporary Cocktails (Perigee/Penguin) is a compact,
informative guide that provides exactly what it promises. Authors Paul Owens, a
San Francisco
restaurateur, and Paul Nathan, a professional magician and writer for
Absintheparty.com (who was actually arrested for selling absinthe during the
ban), present the cocktail’s history, basics and trivia. Collaborator Dave
Herlong, beverage director and creative mixologist for the N9NE Group venues
inside Las Vegas’
Palms Casino Resort, supplies the recipes.
Nathan and Owens
identify three major styles of absinthe. Swiss (blanche) is clear, can be
enjoyed without sugar and makes “great martinis and spritzers.” French (verte)
is typically more bitter and complex and works well in fruit drinks and
punches. Bohemian absinthe, “more bitter and less complex than French,” has
been criticized for being light on the anise and inauthentic, but the authors
say that Bohemian brands should draw criticism for another reason entirely, as
“they generally taste horrible.”
A fourth category has
only one entry, Le Tourment Vert, which Nathan and Owens identify as “the first
cocktail absinthe.” Sweet and versatile, with a lower alcohol content, Le
Tourment Vert is found in many of The
Little Green Book’s cocktail recipes calling for specific absinthe brands
and types.
The book includes 117
recipes, including champagne cocktails, juleps, hot drinks, punches, shots and
martinis. The “Largoyle,” Herlong’s first absinthe cocktail, is an
interpretation of the traditional lemon drop. The awesome combination of citrus
and absinthe is repeated in a variety of refreshing cocktails, like the
“Laneside Lemonade” with 1 ounce Grande Absente absinthe, 2 ounces lemonade and
2 ounces 7Up.
Absinthe makes a great
warm-weather cocktail, but it also lends itself to hot drinks, mixing well with
coffee and hot chocolate (Spiked J-fat Chocolate: 8 ounces hot chocolate 1
ounce Obsello Absinthe) or adding to the classic Hot Toddy to form the
“Tourment Toddy.”
A few cocktails are named for and inspired by absinthe enthusiast Ernest Hemingway. “Hemingway Revolution” stars “robust red fruits, raspberry liqueur, cranberry juice, raspberry purée, and crme de cassis,” and is recommended as a dinner or dessert drink. “Hemingway’s Dream” is where “the daiquiri meets the mojito.” And, of course, among the most famous of absinthe drinks is the classic Hemingway cocktail, “Death in the Afternoon”: half-ounce La Fee Absinthe Parisienne, 4-and-a-half ounces Perrier-Jout Champagne.



Nice article Emily. Unfortunately, it's a bit misguided. The book itself is a thinly veiled product placement for Le Tourment, which most absinthe experts would agree, holds no resemblance to real absinthe at all.
Paul's assertion that LTV is in a category of its own is ridiculous for two reasons:
1) As already mentioned, LTV has no real resemblance to authentic absinthe at all. It's artificially colored, barely louches, and doesn't even taste like authentic absinthe. And,
2) Paul's notion that it's the only 'cocktail friendly' absinthe is absurd. Authentic absinthe has been used in cocktails since cocktails were first invented. The Savoy Cocktail book, one of the most popular cocktail books ever, has over 100 recipes for cocktails that use authentic absinthe.
Poke around on Paul's websites and it's pretty easy to see that he has a close connection to LTV.
There isn't any information in this book that you can't find for free online at sites like the Wormwood Society.
Here's to good drinking,
Brian Robinson
Review Editor
The Wormwood Society