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Thursday, July 8, 2010

Fine Oysters, Lobster at St. Paul Fish Co.

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The St. Paul Fish Co. (400 N. Water St., inside the Milwaukee Public Market) combines a retail operation with table service and an oyster bar named Karen Jean’s. The oysters are always fine and the selection changes frequently. The well-known live Maine lobster special, served every day, includes a whole steamed lobster for just $12.95. A lobster roll was recently added at the same price. The rule for a good New England lobster roll: “Keep it simple.” The roll is little more than a glorified hot-dog bun, while chunks of lobster meat in mayonnaise come with bits of celery and scallion. The menu is large enough, but it is also possible to order items that are not listed. For example, during a recent weekday lunch, a family enjoyed a feast of king crab legs. The St. Paul Fish Co. aims to please its customers.