Rio West Cantina’s Tasty Changes

Rio West Cantina,open for a little more than two years now, serves up Mexican fare in enjoyablesurroundings decorated with assorted handicrafts. More importantly for some,the bar offers a very decent tequila selection. In the past, the only drawbackhad been the limited menu, which consisted of little more than tacos,enchiladas and perhaps a quesadilla. But that recently changed a great deal, asowner Russ Davis placed Frank Sanchez in charge of the kitchen. Sanchezformerly owned Taqueria Azteca, and his late brother Sal helped to foundCempazuchi. Many people remember Azteca for its great cornmeal-breaded perchtacos, which Sanchez introduced to the city.

One immediatedifference at Rio West Cantina is the variety of salsas served with thecomplimentary tortilla chips. The salsas have been different at every visitandall have been excellent, going far beyond the usual tomatoes with cilantro andlots of onion. Another new item is chile relleno ($10.95). It is good as far aschile relleno goes, with a light egg batter and the usual mild cheese filling,but the herbed rice and superior beans hint at greater efforts happening in thekitchen.

The kitchen is a busierplace now, especially on weekend evenings (which are the best time to visit RioWest). During the week, the menu just looks like a slightly expanded version ofthe old one, but weekend evenings offer two full pages of dinner specials. OnFriday the first item will likely be the perch tacos ($7.95), a pair of corntortillas filled with cornmeal-breaded perch fillets, some cabbage lime slawand chipotle mayo. The tacos taste as good as ever and include rice with beans.

From here thingsget even more interesting. A starter that returned by request is caracoles DonEmilio ($7.95), which is Sanchez’s take on escargot. Four snails are served ontoasted bread flavored with garlic. Tomato concasse and aioli help this dishadd up to a great experiencethis is not your normal Mexican fare.

Another day foundbistec adobado ($12.95), chunks of tender flank steak with a smoked red chilesauce. This is a Mexican dish that brings an air of refinement. The ensalada debetabel ($6.95) is a roasted beet salad featuring slices of tender red beetsserved over greens with goat cheese, pecans and honey citrus vinaigrette.Trendy eating, indeed: These items remind me of the fare at Los Girasoles, avery upscale restaurant located near the BellasArtes Museumin Mexico City.

Oh! The dessertspecials deserve mention, too. Even a weekday night found freshly made breadpudding, the type of dessert you would expect at a far pricier restaurant. ASaturday evening offered a luscious poached pear.

Expect changes tothe regular menu, as some of the items will be refined and some will bealtogether transformed. In some ways, however, the cantina has barely changed.You will still find the same casual service and welcoming atmosphere forfamilies. And the tequila menu needed no tinkering at all. It is a pleasure tosee Frank Sanchez at his new home.

Rio West Cantina

2730 N. Humboldt Blvd.

(414) 562-5540

$-$$

Credit Cards: AllMajor

Smoking: At Bar

Handicap Access:Yes